1. Preparation is the key to a successful repair when using body fillers. Use a P80 – P180 grit sanding disc to remove paint in areas to be filled when repairing damage on metal surfaces and make completely sure surfaces are properly cleaned and degreased prior to filler application. Make sure all areas are clean and dry before applying filler. 
2. Body filler requires maximum adhesion to surfaces to give you a stronger and longer lasting repair.
3. Always select the correct type of Body Filler for the repair. For Example, TechniQ Flexi Premium for Plastic and Bumper Repairs and then TechniQ Platinum Light for large area panel repairs such as a door or roof skin.
4. Do not use paint thinners to clean panels and parts before the application of body fillers. The problem with typical acrylic thinners is that they dry too fast. A good degreaser or silicone remover needs to stay wet on the surface long enough for floating contaminants to be picked up by a clean wipe. Acrylic thinners can melt dirt down. Even dirt that does not necessarily show signs of melting may remain and be softened enough to penetrate the surface of the filler repair.
5. Do not add more than the recommended percentage of BPO body filler hardener paste to filler. Adding more or extra hardener will not improve body filler performance, but simply decrease the working time before hardening occurs and make it more likely to bleach or discolour topcoat paint because of the increased levels of hardener in the mix. All TechniQ body fillers use a 2% hardener to 100% filler ratio, meaning that the size of a pea to a golf ball is where you need to be.
6. When mixing Filler and BPO Hardener paste. Mix the filler thoroughly until all the BPO hardener is properly absorbed. Be sure when mixing the filler, that there is no trapped air pockets until a smooth homogenous paste is achieved.
7. Apply Body Filler in the recommended layer thickness only. (See 8)
8. Do not over load or over apply body filler and attempt to fill very deep holes or dents in one single application. Body fillers have specific recommended thickness levels that should be followed for best results. TechniQ Body Fillers have the recommended surface level thickness guide printed on the tins and this should always be observed.
9. Allow body filler to fully harden before attempting to sand it. All TechniQ body fillers have a recommended hardening time which is printed on the tin, Do not try and sand body filler before it is properly hardened and cured, it could drag and ball up, potentially pulling it back from the surface. A better surface finish result will be achieved when sanding fully cured filler with the correct P grade of abrasive.
10. Avoid wet sanding Body Fillers. Water can get behind the repair and cause the adhesion to fail and filler can fall out. It is always better to dry sand Body Filler with the correct P grade of abrasive on a Random Orbital (DA) Sander.
11. Always apply a coat of Primer to fully cured Body Filler before painting. Filler should not be left bare or exposed to the elements. (See 10. Above)

Can Body fillers be used on the painted surface ?

No, Body filler cannot be used directly onto the painted surface. The surfaces to be filled always need to be sanded, prepared, free of dust, dirt and any other contaminants before application can begin.

Are body fillers with Aluminium particles only suitable for repairing Aluminium parts?

No, aluminium filler can also be used on a number of other materials, including iron, bare steel and properly prepared galvanized steel.

Can standard body fillers be used to repair alloy wheels?

No, do not use standard polyester body fillers to repair alloy wheels. These are not suitable and do not possess the same level of strength as fillers which contain aluminium particles which in turn create a high strength repair.

If a tin of filler has resin on the top surface when I open it, does it mean it is off or not useable?

No, if a tin of body filler has been standing, if could have liquid resin on top of the polyester filler, this is quite normal. Better that the product is wetter than dry, which means there is probably a lack of resin. Simply stir the product thoroughly with a mixing stick before mixing with BPO hardener and using as normal.

Where should I store Body Filler when it’s not being used ?

TechniQ Body fillers should be stored in a cool dark place with the lid firmly in place and kept away from sources of ignition when not in use.  

Can I use any type of body filler to get a fine surface finish before paint application? 

No,  body fillers will require one or two applications before you can sand them to a fine enough level to paint over and be confident that there are minimal surface imperfections. TechniQ 31445 Super fine filler stopper or TechniQ 31500 Premium Glaze can be used as a second application layer of filler over any other TechniQ Filler and can be suitably sanded using finer abrasives such as a P400 or P500 to obtain a fine enough finish for paint application. For very small or minor damage such as stone chips or minor scratches, Premium Glaze is the perfect single stage filler for these applications.

What is the shelf life for a tin of TechniQ filler? 

When stored correctly, the shelf life of TechniQ Body Fillers is 2 years from the date of production which is printed on the bottom of the tin. 

Will I get a nice smooth paint finish using an aerosol spray?

Yes, relative to your technique and if all instructions on the aerosol spray can are followed.  Most TechniQ aerosol products come fitted with a pro-fan professional adjustable spray nozzle as standard. Simply grip and turn the nozzle spray head to either a vertical or horizontal setting to obtain the required fan spray angle pattern in order to achieve the desired spray angle for the application.

Are 1k single component aerosol sprays petrol resistant.

There is no 1K spray on the market anywhere today which is what one could call petrol resistant. Certain products are more resistant than others, for example, TechniQ Brake Caliper Paints (made using an Alkyd binder) and TechniQ ULTRA-TEQ coatings (formulated to be wear resistant with acrylic binders) will offer a more resistant /hard wearing finish. TechniQ  DO NOT recommend that any areas which would come in to contact frequently with Petrol or other aggressive chemicals (such as painted motorcycle patrol tanks) are painted with 1K single component paints without using a 2K (2 Component) clear Coat.

Top tip

Always shake aerosol cans for three minutes before application and make a spray out first on an inconspicuous area before commencing spraying.

If I am repairing plastics, will I need a specialised plastic primer?

Not necessarily, you can use TechniQ 220 High Build Etch Rapid Primer as a plastic primer for most re coatable plastics. When repairing plastics always check the type of plastic to ascertain if it is compatible with the material used for the repair. 

For repairs to plastic surfaces which are bare or have an unknown existing coating we would always recommend using TechniQ Powerplast 34480 Plastic Primer / Adhesion Promotor

Do I always have to clean areas to be painted?

Yes always thoroughly clean any area to be painted. If you are sanding ready for a second primer application, it is important that you blow away all primer sanding dust from all areas before spraying again.

When I use aerosols I always seem to block the nozzle after spraying and then I can’t seem to spray material cleanly again.

After each use, invert the TechniQ aerosol spray can 180 degrees and discharge spray for approximately three of four seconds, this will purge and clear the internal valve and spray nozzle in readiness for next use.

My spray can is blocked and nothing is coming out / My spray can is spitting or not spraying uniformly.

The usual reason that could have happened is because the can was not shaken for  3  minutes prior to first application meaning that the constituents components of the can (paint, binder, solvent and propellent) are not mixed together properly.  This applies to all aerosols including Primer, Paint and even Clear Coat Lacquer.  This can potentially cause the internal spray can valve to block or even stick in the closed position rendering a spray can to perform unevenly or even seem as though there is no spray pressure. Usually this is not really the case and there is a simple three minute fix for this.  See below.

1. Shake the spray can for 3 mins minimum and until all the shake balls can be heard moving freely inside the can.
2. Grip and pull the spray nozzle off the can valve. Pull upwards firmly but carefully to remove the spray nozzle.
3. Visually locate the spray can valve in the top aperture of the spray can. The valve is directly underneath where the spray nozzle was previously located
4. Using a very small instrument such as a tiny flat blade screwdriver, apply a small amount of downward pressure to the protruding element of the spray can valve, repeat until the movement can be felt and the valve can re-seat itself back into the closed position. (make sure to do this with the spray can facing away from yourself, as some propellent or semi mixed paint, primer or clear coat may be expelled under pressure when the valve is subsequently freed or unblocked)
5. Reattach the spray nozzle onto the spray can valve.
6. Invert the spray can fully 180° so it is completely upside down.
7. With the spray nozzle facing away from yourself, depress the spray nozzle in bursts of approximately 5 seconds and repeat until propellant starts to come out of the nozzle and the blockage in the valve is free. At this stage the can would be spraying like its expelling fresh air. (Some paint may also come out at some point in this purge, depending on the amount of material in the valve at the point of the blockage)
8. Re-Invert the spray can into the normal upright position and shake for 20-30 seconds before spraying again and the can should perform as normal.
9. After each use, repeat the invert and clean process so as to keep the valve clear of future blockages.

1. Always identify the type and code of plastic to be repaired, in order to check whether the surface material is compatible with the particular product to be applied.
2. Do not apply plastic filler over a painted surface without the correct preparation. Fillers will not obtain maximum adhesion which is critical when repairing plastic parts.
3. When repairing a crack in a bumper, surfaces must be cleaned properly. Use soap and warm water with a scuffing pad to thoroughly clean the area to be repaired. If the repair is to be filled, sand paint from the surrounding area approx 10 – 20mm around the damage, to achieve full adhesion from any Plastic repair materials 
4. Before filling a crack in a bumper, drill a small diameter hole 4/6mm, just above or below the end of the crack. This will release the stress point and prevent the crack worsening when the plastic part is under stress again. 
5. Coat repair surface with TechniQ 34480 Powerplast Adhesion Promotor / Plastic Primer 
6. Inject TechniQ Powerbond plastic repair material into the drilled hole and into the crack to act as a mechanical weld and prevent further damage or stress cracking.
7. Always shallow ‘V’ sand out the surface area of any crack, so that you can apply enough material into the V and create a repair with enough material to obtain maximum strength.
8. Finish off Powerbond bumper and plastic material repairs with TechniQ FLEXI Premium body filler for a finer finish which can be sanded and directly primed over.
9. When sanding FLEXI Premium filler plastic repair, always select the correct level of sandpaper or abrasive discs, so that bumpers and plastic parts aren’t being sanded too aggressively.

A plastic crack repair process guide and user instructions for TechniQ Powerbond Adhesive can be downloaded by clicking>> Here 

Can plastics or bumpers be repaired with standard polyester body fillers?

No, standard body filler will adhere initially, but will not be anywhere near flexible or strong enough to withstand the vibration or stress that plastic parts such as bumpers are subjected to on a daily basis. TechniQ Flexi Premium filler is specially formulated for maximum flexibility and adhere to most common plastics used in the automotive industry. These include PP, EPDM, ABS, PC, PPO, PA, RTPU, PBTP, PVC, PUR, UP-GF. If you use standard polyester filler in a bumper it will most certainly shrink, causing any subsequent painting to crack. The filler may even fall out of the repair altogether. Always check to ascertain whether the plastic part to be repaired is compatible with the material to be used for the application.

My bumper is severely damaged and has a large hole, Can I repair it with filler?

If the hole in the bumper is no greater than the size of a 50 pence piece, then crack seal tape could be used on the reverse side of the bumper and the front side filled with TechniQ Powerbond bumper repair adhesive and subsequently with TechniQ Flexi Premium filler. Generally any plastic repairs where the hole or damage area is greater than a 50 pence piece are not possible using flexible material alone. These types of ‘holes’ or damage will require an evaluation by a professional body repair shop. Always check to ascertain whether the plastic part to be repaired is compatible with the material to be used for the application.

1. Never attempt to repair a split wheel with body filler. This type of serious damage could require aluminium welding. You should speak to a specialist who will advise you whether your wheel damage is repairable or not.
2. If you are repairing alloy wheel rim or face damage with filler, always TechniQ Aluminium Pro filler to ensure the strength and vibration resistance that a wheel repair will require.
3. Best practice for spraying alloy wheels is inside a warm well ventilated room. Avoid spraying wheels outside and in damp or windy conditions.
4. When masking alloy wheels for painting, deflate the tyre from the rim slightly when the wheel is off the vehicle, this will allow you to effectively mask the rubber tyre right up to the rim and avoid overspray. Using TechniQ 96150 Premium Alloy and tyre masking system to speed up this process
5. When refurbishing alloy wheels, we recommend the use of TechniQ 220 High Build Etch Rapid Primer on any bare surface metal wheel repairs and for partially abraded original paint. This will result in providing maximum surface adhesion and create a stable base for the application of the wheel base coat colour.
6. Use a primer relative to the paint colour of the wheels for easier coverage when painting, TechniQ Rapid High Build Etch primers are available in four colours, Light grey, Dark Grey, White and Black.
7. Ensure Etch primer is properly dry (2-4 Hours at 20°C) before application of  the chosen Base Coat Colour.
8. Spray Light coats of Base coat colour and allow paint to flash dry before applying subsequent layers. Spray vertical and horizontal cross coats to get even coverage.
9. Make sure base coat paint is completely dry before the application of Clear Coat. (24 Hours at 20°C)
10. Clear Coat needs to fully dry before refitting alloy wheels to the vehicle. (24 Hours at 20°C)

Painting Alloy Wheels. The TechniQ Process to achieve best results.

IMPORTANT: Environmental Conditions.

Always spray Alloy wheels inside and in a warm moisture free environment which is suitably ventilated. (Ideal room temperature is between 18-22°c) Always wear suitable protective personal protection when using paint (Mask, Gloves, Goggles, Overalls). Do not spray alloy wheels outside or especially in cold, windy or damp conditions. Paint takes far longer to dry.

Spraying in cold conditions can severely impact paint drying times.

Spraying in breezy or windy conditions can cause solvents in paints to dry much too fast and cause a misting or clouding effect.

Spraying in damp conditions can cause paints to react, lift and affect adhesion.

Equally spraying in exceptionally warm or hot conditions or worse still, outside or in direct bright sunlight at temperatures over 25 °C can cause the solvents in paints to evaporate far too quickly and force the paint top layer to dry out too fast causing clouding or misting or a patchy finish, a definite loss of gloss or even colour layout.

Even Drying:

To facilitate even drying paint and the best effective layer by layer drying at the correct temperature is the real key to achieving the best finish which will not be patchy or misty. This can be easily checked by making a test sprayout in the correct conditions before going ahead and spraying paint at high temperatures and risking a patch finish.

Prepare the paint:

Shake Alloy wheel paint spray cans for at least 3 Minutes prior to application until all the shake balls can be heard moving freely inside the spray can. (This also includes clear coat lacquer) . If this is not done, the constituent components of the paint will not be correctly mixed.

Test Sprayout:

Always make a test sprayout on an inconspicuous area or other surface to determine the correct spray pattern angle and technique before making the first application. TechniQ Alloy Wheel Paint spray nozzles can be easily adjusted by gripping and turning the small fan piece on the spray nozzle to either a vertical or horizontal spraying pattern to aid application into corners and tight areas)

Paint Shelf Life / Use By Dates and Identifying Stamps:

All TechniQ Alloy Wheel Paints have what is called a ‘Prod Date’ printed (stamped) on the label which is affixed to the tin or can. This is basically the ‘Product’s filling or paint manufacturing date’ and is NOT the use by date.

TechniQ Alloy Wheel Paints have a Five Year shelf life from the date of manufacture (the ‘Prod Date’), so for example if the ‘Prod Date’ printed (stamped) on the label affixed to the the tin is 21.04.20, this means that the product was manufactured specifically on 21st April 2020 and should therefore be used by 21st April 2025.

Paint Coverage

We advise to work on approximately 2/3 of a 400ml can of Alloy Wheel Paint per each 17” wheel face. Typical number of coats required can be 2-3 depending on the thickness.

Coverage per each 400ml spray can  vary depending on the size of the wheels, the total surface area and the number of coats applied. When painting the insides of Alloy wheel rims, this usually doubles the amount of paint that is required, as invariably the inside of an alloy wheel rim is deeper and has a larger surface area than the face itself. Alloy wheels should be suitably prepared (sanded or keyed) and completely clean and 100% dry before application of any paint can begin. There should be no grease, dirt, polish, wheel cleaner, dust or any other contaminants present on the surface which is to be painted.

1. We recommend the application of TechniQ 220 Etch Primer over any bare metal or partially sanded old coating on alloy wheels. A light cross coat of Etch Primer onto these areas should be sufficient to correctly cover the old coating or sanded surface and create a stable base for the new basecoat paint.
2. When Etch Primer is fully dry (2-4 hours at 20° C) final sanding to remove imperfections (if required) can begin.
3. Sand primer with P400 Abrasive disc on a random orbital sander. Sand smooth and uniform.
4. Clean or blow away all dust and debris before the application of basecoat paint.
5. Mask tyres if still fitted to wheel and position wheels in an upright / angled position at 30-45°. We do not recommend spraying wheels while they are lying flat on the ground.
6. Apply Basecoat colour firstly in very light cross coats at a distance of approximately 25cm from the surface and allow the basecoat paint to ‘flash off’ dry. The spray can should ideally be in a near as upright position as possible throughout the spraying process, so to minimise any build up of paint at the spray nozzle and in order to maintain a uniform spraying pattern. Clean the spray nozzle between spraying applications. Rotate wheels as required during the spraying process in order to achieve full coverage of the surface and cover any corners / inside spokes or arms.
7. Spray cans should be inverted 180° upside down between each spraying application and purged, so as to avoid blocking the internal spray can valve and spray nozzle.
8. Repeat the base coat application as required or until a desired uniform smooth paint finish is achieved.
9. Allow the basecoat to fully dry before the application of any clear coat lacquer. This will take 24 hours at a temperature of 20°C
10. When the basecoat is fully dry, any minor surface imperfections in the basecoat can usually be removed with either a P1500 – P2000 microfine sanding disc or P2000 wet and dry sand paper, being very careful not to sand through the paint layer.
11. When  final preparation is completed, application of the Clear Coat Lacquer can begin. Use the same process as basecoat for application. Spray very light coats only and wait for flash dry before applying further coats. Do not overload clear coat lacquer or spray too much product too quickly, to avoid runs and pooling in corners and angles.
12. Clear Coat is dry in 24 hours at 20 °C. Wheels can then be refitted to the vehicle. Care should be taken not to chip the clear coat or mark the surface if the paint is not fully cured. Clear coat can still be slightly soft if many layers have been applied.

TechniQ Professional Products make no guarantee of paint coverage per can per alloy wheel for any customer specific wheels. This is because we cannot control the environmental conditions, the preparation or number of paint layers applied, rework that may occur from application errors, alloy wheel size /total surface area or the users paint spraying expertise or experience

Will TechniQ Alloy Wheel Paints match the colour of the wheels on my car ?

No. TechniQ Alloy Wheel paints are bespoke colour formulations which are unique to TechniQ Professional Products and are neither advertised or sold on our website as being a colour match to ANY manufacturers colour code or colour name. Please Do Not try to colour match these paints to any existing colour. 

Any Wheel images displayed next to images of the spray cans on any of our websites are purely for representative purposes and to show the general paint shade as best we can. The images are therefore only an outline indication of the colour inside the spray can .

Whilst we have made every effort to make the colours and finishes on screen as close as possible to the colours and finishes of the products you’ll use, the representation of colours, gloss levels, metallic effects and textures are limited by technology and may vary due to your screen resolution, device and printer settings.

PLEASE DO NOT rely upon the colour image for accuracy and do not try and colour match this paint with any other product, part or manufacturers paint code or colour name.

Plastic Spray Can Lids are not colour coded to the paint inside the cans. Plastic lids are only a generic indicator of the shade.

Customers should be aware that once the paint is purchased and subsequently opened/sprayed/brushed, that we shall not accept these products as return items. Customers are responsible for the product application and for determining if the colour is suitable for their intended application.

Can I use any body filler to repair an alloy wheel?

No. Wheels are subjected to intense vibration and heat in daily use. Standard polyester body filler will eventually crack and fall out of any repairs because they will not withstand this level of heat and vibration. Use TechniQ Aluminium Pro 35250 for this type of repair.

My wheel is split / cracked. Can I fill the crack or split with body filler and assume it will be fine because it is not visible anymore?

No, when an alloy wheel is split or cracked it may be dangerous and needs to be inspected by a specialist in order to ascertain if it can be alloy welded or indeed repaired. Do not attempt to fill a split or cracked alloy wheel.

If I use body filler to repair an alloy wheel can I leave it or just clear coat over the top to get a decent finish?

No. TechniQ Alloy Wheel filler is supposed to be primed, colour coated and then clear coated. Even though TechniQ Alloy Wheel Filler is metal coloured, it is not a substitute for a paint finish. Leaving cured filler un coated on a wheel will result in eventual product failure. 

Repainting brake calipers nicely not only lifts the overall appearance, but it may also increase the value of a vehicle. Rusty calipers can very easily spoil the look of a car,

Can I paint my own brake calipers ?

The answer is Yes.

Brake calipers can be painted whatever colour you like, however you must be careful not to get any paint on the friction parts (brake discs / brake pads). Doing so may impact their ability to bring your car to a stop, which could be dangerous.

In order to avoid overspray or getting paint on any other areas of the car,  mask these areas or remove the brake calipers altogether. Either way will be fine, though the brake caliper removal option should only be attempted if you know what you’re doing.

How do I paint my own brake calipers ?

Here’s our best practice for painting Brake Calipers.

Preparation is the key.

1. Before attempting to cleaning or paint the calipers, the vehicle must be off the ground and the wheel(s) removed. First, loosen the nuts on the wheel. Then, jack the vehicle up and remove the wheel. Remember to keep the wheel nuts safe as these will be needed later.
2. Clean the brakes properly. Now that the are wheels off and the calipers are visible, it is important to make sure that they are 100% clean. Do not attempt to paint over any dirt, grime and congealed oil or rust, otherwise the paint will not adhere properly and will react with the grime. Best practice is to use a wire brush to remove the worst of the rust and dirt and then clean the caliper with TechniQ Power Brake Cleaner Art. No TQ58107. If necessary use a small brush in conjunction with the Power Brake Cleaner to remove all the dirt, grime and brake dust from intricate areas. Make 100% sure that all the Power Brake Cleaner is removed or has fully evaporated prior to paint application. If necessary clean the calipers again with soap and water to make sure all traces of the brake cleaner are removed. Make sure the calipers are 100% dry and clean before any brake caliper paint application.
3. Mask up the calipers for paint. This is a very important step – the more time spent on preparation, the better and more professional the finish will be. Firstly, take off the front retainer clip and then cover the bleed nipple with masking tape to protect it. Ensure the valve is completely covered. Overlapping the layers of masking tape may help to prevent paint from leaking into the joins. Mask any rubber brake hose fittings with tape. Use a plastic sheet to completely cover the brake disc. Apply the plastic sheet so that there are no gaps that could cause paint to leak onto the disc. Rotate the disc so that it seals the plastic between the brake pads and the disc. Fix the plastic sheet with more masking tape to keep it from moving.
4. Now it’s time for painting. No matter what colour has been chosen or in which format (Spray or Brushing paint) make sure to either shake the spray can for three minutes and do a test spray on something inconspicuous or in the case of using the Brushable paint option, stir the paint for approximately 1 minute with a mixing stick to make sure that all the components are correctly mixed.

Brake Caliper Paint Application.

*TechniQ Brake Caliper Paints do not require a primer or undercoat before application. 

5. For Brushable paint, apply the paint smoothly and evenly by brushing one thin coat at a time. Avoid painting one overall heavy thick coat as this will only result in a patchy finish with drip marks. it’s far better to apply multiple layers of thin coats, waiting around 10 -15 minutes for each one to become touch dry before applying the next.
6. For sprayable paint, use the same principle. One very light covering coat to start with and then apply further coats when the paint has dried for 15-20 minutes. Build up the coats gradually until the desired finish is achieved. Make sure not to over apply sprayable paint, as this can cause heavy patches and runs on corners and angles. For spray cans, invert and spray the can upside down after each application to spray propellant and ensure that the can valve and nozzle are unblocked prior to the next application.
7. Once the brake caliper paint is touch dried, carefully remove all the masking materials from earlier and then put the wheels back on the car. Remember to tighten the wheel nuts that were kept in a safe place earlier. Then, lower the car off the jack. If planning on painting the rear calipers, the car can now be jacked up at the rear and the process repeated.
8. Admire the finished result. Now the calipers will gleam and shine with their brand new paint finish and lift the overall look of the car. To finish off the look, consider painting and refreshing the alloy wheels as well.

Recoating advice.

If the paint finish for whatever reason needs recoating, Never use brake cleaner to clean the previously applied layer. The brake cleaner will only soften and begin to remove the previous paint layer. If the painted surface needs recoating, always clean it using only soap and water and make sure the surfaces are completely 100% dry before application

*For Brake Caliper Paint drying times, please read the Brake Caliper Paint FAQ’s below.